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The UK’s first cheese and wine fine dining restaurant has opened its doors in Manchester – and we’ve been given a look around what is set to become a haven for cheese lovers.
Situated on the second floor of WOOD restaurant on Jack Rosenthal Street, Homage is an ‘intimate and opulent’ setting providing just enough space for seven tables.
A selection of some of the boldest and greatest cheeses have been carefully paired with fine wines, liquors and beer and served alongside homemade chutneys, piccalillis, membrillos and crackers.
For chef and former MasterChef winner Simon Wood, who hails from Oldham, Homage is a labour of love that’s been more than two years in the making.
“When we reopened WOOD after lockdown, I decided that I really wanted to push for a star – that’s my ambition,” Simon tells the M.E.N.
“With Homage, we’re pushing ourselves as far as we can.
“Cheese and wine might sound really simple to most people but it took a long time to come up with this.
“Some of the chutneys we use have been prepared for over two years.
“We wanted to create something really quite humble and opulent.
“It’s very different but it’s something that’s interesting – it’s fun and exciting – and I’m really passionate about it.”
The menu features a range of soft, blue and goats milk cheeses, including the ‘pungent buttery-ness’ of Edmund Tue (£8.50), which stems from Blackwoods Dairy in Kent, to the ‘melting core’ of Vacherin Mont D’or (£8) from Jura in France.
Drinks on offer include Rolly Gassman Sylvaner (£8.50), a Gosset NV Brut champagne (£10) and Donkeystone Ferris Muler beer (£6).
There’s also the 1900 Md’Olivereas Moscatel Graudo Madeira (£98) if you feel super indulgent.
Also featured on the food side of things is the Owd Yonner Cheese Pie (£11), which comes with pinto baked beans and features a creamy cheese from Lancashire.
“I’m an Oldham lad,” Simon expresses.
“The guy who makes the cheese is someone who I use for a lot of my produce. His wife is from Oldham and so he named it after yonner, which is a sort of derogatory term in Oldham.
“As soon as I heard that story, I knew I needed to make a cheese and onion pie with it.”
In fact, most of the dishes have a story to them – chosen for that specific reason.
For example, a rainbow-coloured chutney pays homage to Simon’s childhood.
“My grandad and nana used to always make me cheese and beetroot sandwiches,” Simon explains.
“I always remember that I could go to the shop and buy some rainbow sherbet if I ate all my lunch and it would always be a different colour each week.
“The chutney is a play on that – it consists of pickled beetroot, fermented beetroot and a sauerkraut-style beetroot – and everytime someone comes in, it’ll taste and look completely different.
“I always put crisps on my sandwiches too so I thought why not make some crisps that are made from white beetroot and look like leaves.
“Everything here has a story.”
Simon says that Homage has been created to attract anyone with a love for cheese and wine – whether they want something reasonably priced or want to splash out on something a little extra.
“You can have really expensive stuff here or you can go the other way,” he says.
“If you want to come in and have truffle Baron Bigod with champagne and caviar then you can, but it’s going to cost you money.
“But we also have some real down-to-earth cheeses that are perfect for a light lunch on Friday.
“It’s a very casual affair.”
Simon hopes that Homage, with its warm setting and intimate environment, will eventually become a place where people know they can have a chilled and private experience with good food.
“You don’t have to get dressed up – you can just come in, chill out and have some really good cheese and wine,” he says.
“You’re not going to get any of this at home. Everyone can go to Asda and buy an assortment of cheeses and water biscuits – and there’s nothing wrong with that – but this is a really enjoyable yet indulgent experience that I think exceeds that.
“You’re not just buying a piece of cheese – it’s a real labour of love.”
Homage is open Wednesday and Thursday from 5pm until late, and Friday and Saturday from 12pm til late. More information can be found here.
Source: Manchester Evening News: Adam Maidment
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Rick says: ‘I have a great affection for the Mediterranean baked dishes of meat, pasta, tomato and kefalotyri – a dry, firm, ewe’s milk cheese, full of irregular holes. It ranges in colour from white through to pale yellow, depending on the grazing of the sheep, and is fresh and slightly sharp-tasting, with a distinct flavour of ewe’s milk.‘
500g tubular pasta, such as rigatoni, penne or tortiglioni
2 eggs, lightly beaten
50g Greek kefalotiri cheese or Parmesan cheese, finely grated
2 tbsp melted butter
10g fresh white breadcrumbs
White sauce
115g butter
115g plain flour
1.2 litres whole milk, plus a little extra
1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
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4 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 celery sticks, finely chopped
1kg lean beef mince
200ml red wine
400g tin chopped tomatoes
2 tbsp tomato paste
10cm cinnamon stick
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1 tbsp dried oregano, Greek if possible
2 tbsp fresh chopped oregano
3 fresh bay leaves
Salt and black pepper
For the meat sauce, heat the oil in a pan, add the onion, garlic and celery and fry until just beginning to brown. Add the mince and fry over a high heat for 3–4 minutes, breaking up any lumps with a wooden spoon as the meat browns.
Add the red wine, tomatoes, tomato paste, cinnamon stick, ground cloves, dried and fresh oregano, bay leaves, 100ml of water, 11/2 teaspoons of salt and some black pepper. Simmer for 30–40 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce has thickened but is still nicely moist. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick and bay leaves, then set the sauce aside.
Cook the pasta in salted boiling water until al dente. Take care not to overcook, as it will cook a little more in the oven. Drain well, transfer to a large bowl and leave to cool slightly.
For the white sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the flour and cook, while stirring, over a medium heat, for 1 minute. Gradually beat in the milk, then bring to the boil, still stirring. Lower the heat and leave to simmer for 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with the nutmeg and some salt and pepper to taste.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C. Stir 250ml (about one-fifth) of the white sauce into the warm pasta together with the beaten eggs and half the grated cheese. Keep the remaining sauce warm over a low heat, stirring now and then and adding more milk if it begins to get a little thick.
Use the melted butter to grease a large, shallow ovenproof dish measuring about 23 x 33cm across and 7cm deep. Spread one-third of the pasta mixture over the base of the dish and cover with half the meat sauce. Add another third of the pasta and then the rest of the meat sauce, then cover with a final layer of pasta. Spoon over the remaining white sauce.
Mix the remaining grated cheese with the breadcrumbs and sprinkle them over the top. Bake for 30–40 minutes until bubbling hot and golden brown on top.
Recipe from Rick Stein at Home by Rick Stein (BBC Books). Photo by James Murphy.
Celebrating recipes from his home kitchen, a signed copy of Rick’s latest cookery book is a must-have for your coffee table or book shelf. It includes 100 very special recipes, many from his recent Cornwall series.Order a signed copy
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MAKE AHEAD TIP: Make the Christmas pudding up to 6 weeks ahead. Keep in a cool, dark place, then proceed as recipe on Christmas Day.
FREEZE AHEAD TIP: Make and freeze the Christmas pudding for up to 1 year ahead. Thaw overnight at room temperature and proceed as recipe on Christmas Day.
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