#AceFoodNews – March.20: Burnt Truffle: restaurant review – Jay Rayner
Burnt Truffle is a restaurant shaped by expediency. It occupies a location on the Wirral which is unassuming in the way that Wales is often wet, inside a building of blunt dimensions, presumably once a house, set back from the road. You could easily miss it, which would be a crying shame.
Inside, the walls are painted white and the tables are bare wood. A few old mirrors stand in for décor. To understand the business you must look elsewhere on those walls, at the framed menus from restaurants like the French Laundry in California and Rick Stein’s flagship restaurant in Padstow; at those from The Square, Lyle’s and Barrafina in London.
It is a cheap way to declare intent and here, cheap is what matters, in a good way.
By crowdfunding this neighbourhood bistro, lucky Wirral residents have gained a kitchen that can do no wrong.
Burnt Truffle, 106 Telegraph Road, Heswall, Wirral CH60 OAQ (0151 342 1111). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £70-£90
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