‘ A VISIT TO A KITCHEN OF JUDITH JONES PROMOTER OF CLASSIC FRENCH COOKING ‘


As an editor, Judith Jones introduced the world to food legends like Julia Child, James Beard and Marcella Hazan. Here she shares a recipe from her latest book, ‘Love Me, Feed Me,’ a collection of dishes you can share with your dog.

NO 3 . Screenshot from 2014-11-09 19:27:43

NEXT TIME YOU’RE feeling uninspired or too lazy to cook, think of Judith Jones, the book editor who introduced the world to Julia Child as well as food legends James Beard, Marcella Hazan, Edna Lewis and Madhur Jaffrey. Her legacy also includes three books co-authored with her late husband, Evan Jones, and three of her own. At 90 years old, she continues to make supper nearly every night, and to eat it at a table beside a wall of hanging pots in her kitchen on New York City’s Upper East Side. “It’s sort of indecent,” she said, “because sometimes, I begin to think around 4 o’clock, ‘Hm, is it almost time to start cooking?’ ” These days, she cooks mostly for herself and her Havanese dog, Mabon. To help others do the same, she wrote “Love Me, Feed Me: Sharing With Your Dog the Everyday Good Food You Cook and Enjoy,” published last month by Knopf. Even those without canine companions are sure to find Ms. Jones’s simple recipes—and her delight in sharing them—highly motivating.

NO 2 - Screenshot from 2014-11-09 19:27:19

The thing that most people notice first about my kitchen is: all these hanging pots. I think hiding all your wonderful pots and pans is an expression of my mother’s generation, when a kitchen was just utilitarian; nobody had fun in there.

The tools I can’t live without are: a wooden spatula and a wooden fork. Wood doesn’t scrape the bottom of your pans so much. It’s gentle.

The cookbook I turn to again and again is:“Mastering the Art of French Cooking.” [Julia Child’s] wonderfully analytic way of expressing what is special about French cooking—and how to translate it to the American kitchen—was thrilling. I still go back when I’m sort of refreshing myself: “Well, what did Julia say about that?”

Le Creuset Almond Colour

The pot I reach for most is: the smallest size Le Creuset [enameled cast-iron] saucepan. I have it in copper, too. That’s just great for Mabon and me. It’s sometimes the pots that make you a better cook, so people should get pots that are pure and efficient and well-made. Good ones last a lifetime.

At this time of year, my favorite thing to eat is: root vegetables. Growing up, most of the winter we had turnips and parsnips. I remember when the first asparagus would appear in the spring, I would just cry with delight! I think that’s rather good for your palate, to hold back for when a vegetable is really ready.

I first became interested in food: when I went abroad with my husband. My awakening was clearly in France. I tell the story, in this new book, of [chef-restaurateur] Fernand Point having us in for a lunch. He didn’t know who we were; we were just scruffy Americans. But that was a great experience—a turning point, in a way, in my life. And then I had a Hungarian sister-in-law, and she introduced me to Hungarian food. She was born a countess and then she met Mr. Jones, my husband’s brother. From countess to Jones, what a tumble.

When I entertain, I like to: keep it simpler these days. When I entertained after I first came back from France, it was four courses. Always something with the drink. The main course or fish course, with a vegetable garnish—at least one—and a starch garnish. Now we’re finally up to the salad, and cheese. And, well, that’s a lot of stuff. And then dessert and coffee. Now I’d be more likely to do what I call a “made dish.” It’s all cooked and ready, and you pop it into the oven to reheat.

I don’t like it when my dinner guests: bring something. I think we’re doing too much of that. It ruins the dinner. You plan a beautifully balanced meal, and then in comes a cupcake and people feel they have to taste it and ooh and aah, and it has nothing to do with your dinner. A bottle of wine is nice and helpful, and sometimes some cheese.

I like to drink: Campari. It just cleanses me somehow and gets me ready for dinner. It’s actually better, I think, than a glass of wine on an empty stomach. But once we’re into the food, I’m a good wine drinker.

A typical breakfast for me is: my own granola with Vermont maple syrup. And I have some blueberries and bananas. If I’m in Paris, it’s a croissant and café au lait, with the lait, you know, warm and almost bubbling on the top. I love breakfast. And then I love lunch.

On weeknights, I often cook: some wonderful pork tenderloins. Usually what I end up doing is making a roast with vegetables around. It’s so simple. And then I have some left for a quick stir-fry with vegetables the next night. Or a little hash. I love hashes: You open your fridge and you see what’s in there, so they’re always a little bit different.

One of the most underrated foods is: again, root vegetables. It’s interesting to use them in different ways—not just as a separate vegetable, but, say, in a ravioli. They’re new tastes, and yet familiar. I think if you reach too hard for the new, it’s a mistake.

A food trend I’m totally over is: kale. I was trying new green vegetables on my dog, Mabon. So, with all this talk that you could hardly survive without eating kale three times a day, I decided to try a little bit. I stir-fried it and put three little clumps in his dish. And he sniffed each clump, picked each one up and put it over there, and there, and there—and walked away. I was proud of him. Good boy!

—Edited from an interview by Charlotte Druckman-

Ace Cooking Author News

Source: and Video 

#AceFoodNews

‘ Blue Cheesecake with a Difference ‘


#AceRecipeNews – Nov.09 – This is one l have cooked and my diner’s love it – it is a must try #chefs-tips

' Blue Cheese Cheesecake with Baby Greens, Candied Walnuts and a Pear Vinaigrette '

‘ Blue Cheese Cheesecake with Baby Greens, Candied Walnuts and a Pear Vinaigrette ‘

Ingredients
3/4 cup toasted bread crumbs
3/4 cup finely chopped toasted walnuts
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 pound good-quality blue cheese, at room temperature
1 pound cream cheese, at room temperature
4 eggs
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Baby greens for serving
Pear Vinaigrette, recipe follows
Candied Walnuts, recipe follows
Pear Vinaigrette:
1 (4-ounce) firm-ripe pear, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch thick slices
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
2 tablespoons minced shallots
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons green onions
1/2 cup vegetable oil
Candied Walnuts:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup walnut halves
2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
Directions
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

In the bowl of a food processor, combine bread crumbs, walnuts and melted butter and process until thoroughly combined. Press the mixture on the bottom and partially up the sides of an 8-inch springform pan. Set aside.

In a mixing bowl combine blue cheese and cream cheese and mix until smooth. Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper and combine well. Using a spatula, transfer cheese mixture to the prepared pan and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the cake is golden brown and not loose in the center.

While the cake is baking, make the Pear Vinaigrette and Candied Walnuts.

When the cake is puffed, golden brown and not loose in the center, transfer to a cooling rack and allow to cool at least 30 minutes before serving.

Serve the cake warm, with a salad of baby greens tossed with the Pear Vinaigrette, garnished with the Candied Walnuts.

Pear Vinaigrette:
Combine the pear, Champagne vinegar, shallots, sugar, rosemary and black pepper in a skillet and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the pears are tender, about 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a blender or food processor.

Add the mustard, soy sauce, kosher salt, and green onions, and puree on high speed. With the motor running, add the oil in a thin stream and process until emulsified. Remove from the blender and refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to serve. (The vinaigrette will keep for up to 1 week refrigerated.)

Yield: 1 generous cup

Candied Walnuts:
Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the walnuts and cook, stirring, until golden brown and toasted, 3 minutes. Add the sugar and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Transfer to a piece of waxed paper to cool.

Yield: 1/2 cup

Recipe courtesy Emeril Lagasse, 2002

Source: 

#AceFoodNews

‘ The Five Basic Rules for Cooking Meat ‘


You can cook meat a number of different ways, from roasting to pan-searing to barbecuing. However, there are five basic principles that apply to the vast majority of techniques when it comes to meat and poultry. Here’s what we’ve found after years of cooking in our test kitchen:

1. USE HIGH HEAT TO DEVELOP FLAVOR

meatcookery1

Browning creates a tremendous amount of flavor and is a key step when cooking meat. This happens through a process called the Maillard reaction, named after the French chemist who first described it in the early 1900s. The Maillard reaction occurs when the amino acids and sugars in the food are subjected to heat, which causes them to combine. In turn, hundreds of different flavor compounds are created. These compounds break down to form yet more new flavor compounds, and so on, and so on. When browning meat, you want a deep brown sear and a discernibly thick crust on all sides—best obtained by quick cooking over high heat.

To ensure that meat browns properly, first make sure the meat is dry before it goes into the pan; pat it thoroughly with paper towels. This is especially important with previously frozen meat, which often releases a great deal of water. Second, make sure the pan is hot by preheating it over high heat until the fat added to the pan is shimmering or almost smoking. Finally, make sure not to overcrowd the pan; there should be at least 1/4 inch of space between the pieces of meat. If there isn’t, the meat is likely to steam instead of brown. If need be, cook the meat in two or three batches.

2. USE LOW HEAT TO PRESERVE MOISTURE

For large cuts of meat or poultry, we often advocate a low-and-slow cooking method. We find that this approach allows the center to come up to the desired internal temperature with less risk of overcooking the outer layers.

An experiment we recently conducted proves that even cooking isn’t the only benefit of slow roasting: It also helps minimize the loss of flavorful juices (and fat). We took two 6‑pound rib roasts and roasted one at 450 degrees and the other at 250 degrees until each was medium-rare. We then weighed the cooked roasts. The slow-cooked roast had lost about 9.25 percent of its starting weight, while the high-temperature roast had lost nearly 25 percent of its original weight. Why the difference? Proteins shrink less and express less moisture and fat when cooked at moderate temperatures than when roasted at high heat.

3. MATCH THE CUT TO THE COOKING METHOD

meatcookery2

Tough cuts, which generally come from the heavily exercised parts of the animal, such as the shoulder or rump, respond best to slow-cooking methods, such as pot roasting, stewing, or barbecuing. The primary goal of slow cooking is to melt collagen in the connective tissue, thereby transforming a tough piece of meat into a tender one. These cuts are always served well done.

Tender cuts with little connective tissue generally come from parts of the animal that receive little exercise (like the loin, the area along the back of the cow or pig). These cuts respond best to quicker, dry-heat cooking methods, such as grilling or roasting. These cuts are cooked to a specific doneness. Prolonged cooking increases moisture loss and can turn these tender cuts tough.

4. DON’T FORGET ABOUT CARRYOVER COOKING

Since the temperature of meat will continue to rise as it rests, an effect called carryover cooking, meat should be removed from the oven, grill, or pan when it’s 5 to 10 degrees below the desired serving temperature. Carryover cooking doesn’t apply to poultry and fish (they don’t retain heat as well as the dense muscle structure in meat). The following temperatures should be used to determine when to stop the cooking process.

Screen Shot 2014-10-20 at 11.31.47 AM

*These doneness temperatures represent the test kitchen’s assessment of palatability weighed against safety. The basics from the USDA differ somewhat: Cook whole cuts of meat, including pork, to an internal temperature of at least 145 degrees and let rest for at least 3 minutes. Cook all ground meats to an internal temperature of at least 160 degrees. Cook all poultry, including ground poultry, to an internal temperature of at least 165 degrees. You may read more information on food safety from the USDA.

5. REST YOUR MEAT

The purpose of resting meat is to allow the juices, which are driven to the center during cooking, to redistribute themselves throughout the meat. As a result, meat that has rested will shed much less juice than meat sliced straight after cooking. To test this theory, we grilled four steaks and let two rest while slicing into the other two immediately. The steaks that had rested for 10 minutes shed 40 percent less juice than the steaks sliced right after cooking. The meat on the unrested steaks also looked grayer and was not as tender. A thin steak or chop should rest for 5 to 10 minutes, a thicker roast for 15 to 20 minutes. And when cooking a large roast like a turkey, the meat should rest for about 40 minutes before it is carved.

cvr_sfs_pepper_crusted_tenderloin_bw-9

Now that you know the basic principles, try applying them to one of our recipes, likePepper-Crusted Beef Tenderloin Roast. It’s easy to make—just oven-roast it until it’s done—and, as the absolute most tender cut of beef, it’s luxurious to eat. We boosted the flavor with a crunchy peppercorn crust.

ilo_pork_primalcutsOn cimeatbook.com, find meat recipes, meat video tips, and all meaty matters regarding The Cook’s Illustrated Meat Book.

%d bloggers like this: